Are you noticing super thin, shallow, crepey lines on your forehead, cheeks or undereye area? If so, you might just have “fake wrinkles.” These little lines aren’t really wrinkles at all and (good news) they’re just temporary. We’ll tell you more about what fake wrinkles really are and help you learn how to get your skin looking smooth and plump again.
What are fake wrinkles?
Fake wrinkles (as the name implies) aren’t actually wrinkles at all. These super fine lines and creases are actually known as “dehydration lines” and they’re temporary—not permanent. “During the winter, I frequently see dehydration lines in my clients,” says licensed master esthetician Billie Jo Bond. One of the tell-tale signs of dehydration lines is when your skin has a “cross-hatch” pattern (i.e. a network of thin, shallow creases) on its surface.
Wrinkles vs. dehydration lines
There are several key differences between wrinkles and hydration lines:
What causes wrinkles?
Wrinkles happen over time, from natural collagen and elastin loss that occurs as we age and from outside factors such as UV rays and environmental pollution. As you lose collagen and elastin, your skin loses some of its structure—leading to “static” wrinkles like nasolabial folds (like the creases on the side of your mouth) or “dynamic” wrinkles (like forehead wrinkles, which become more pronounced with movement).
What causes dehydration lines?
Dehydration lines, on the other hand, aren’t caused by loss of collagen and elastin. These fine crepey lines are caused by a lack of moisture on your skin’s surface. “When the top layer of your skin lacks moisture, the surface ‘shrinks’ slightly and creates a ‘pulling’ effect,” explains Bond. “This causes the appearance of shallow, super fine, cross-hatched lines.”
How to tell if you have dehydration lines
One of the easiest ways to tell if you have dehydration lines is the “pinch test.” If you gently pinch your skin between your thumb and index fingers and it stays “tented” or crinkly looking, your skin’s surface is probably dehydrated.
Fortunately, you can reverse the appearance of dehydration lines by giving your skin the hydration it needs—and here’s how.
How to prevent dehydration lines
Use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser
Harsh cleansers with sodium lauryl sulfate can strip away natural oils that your skin needs and weaken your skin barrier, which leads to dehydration. Choose a gentle, creamy cleanser with hydrating ingredients like ceramides or glycerin instead.
Don’t over-exfoliate
Over-exfoliation damages your skin barrier and leads to “transepidermal water loss” (TEWL). Long story short, this means your skin can’t hold on to water and it becomes dehydrated. “I recommend that my clients exfoliate once a week with LUXE+ Sonic Dermaplaning,” says Bond. “It’s gentle, it won’t lead to over-exfoliation and you’re still getting the collagen-boosting benefits of regular exfoliation.”
Layer, layer, layer
With dehydrated skin, you might think it’s best to just slap on a heavy cream and call it a day. But what will help you more is proper layering of skincare, which allows you to rehydrate your skin and prevent that moisture from escaping. Start with a hydrating serum that has ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which draw water to the skin. Then, seal it in with cream that has “occlusive” (i.e. moisture trapping) ingredients like shea butter, squalane, petrolatum or jojoba oil. You should see your dehydration lines start to soften almost immediately.
Use a humidifier in the winter
Dry air pulls moisture from your skin and leads right to dehydration. Sleeping with a humidifier can prevent your skin from becoming parched and developing dehydration lines.
Don’t skip SPF
We know, we know…we’re like a broken record! But protecting your skin from UV rays is crucial to keeping your barrier strong and preventing dehydration.
Follow these tips and say goodbye to dehydration lines!
